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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reloading larger quantities of .223 lately and removing the primer crimp is a pain in the butt, not to mention alot of lost primers from the crimp not being completely removed.

Does anyone have any good tips for removing the primer crimp.
 

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Isnt there a tool for that? I thought I remember seeing something. But I could be wrong. I don't know if it removes the crimp so much as it removes the primer from a crimped primer pocket on military brass. Is this one in he same?
 

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youtube shows effective removal with certain taper bits that u can attach to a drill. reports on the rcbs swag tools and such do not work so well.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 

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I catch maybe 1 out of 50 primer pockets that I need to ream/cut. I just have a RCBS handheld tool with bits that can be put into a cordless drill.
I have seen some use similar tools to cut the crimp out of the primer pocket.
 

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My 1050 has a built in swager. I used to use an RCBS tool in the single stage and it worked alright, albeit a little slow for my tastes. Dillon makes a swaging tool that is pretty good though and decently fast to use for quantities. Here's a vid of a mod a fellow did to make it even more user friendly. You can use your case mouth deburring tool to remove it too. Here's a vid of a mod a fellow did to make it even more user friendly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaZHeSUqQbk&feature=player_embedded
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My 1050 has a built in swager. I used to use an RCBS tool in the single stage and it worked alright, albeit a little slow for my tastes. Dillon makes a swaging tool that is pretty good though and decently fast to use for quantities. Here's a vid of a mod a fellow did to make it even more user friendly. You can use your case mouth deburring tool to remove it too. Here's a vid of a mod a fellow did to make it even more user friendly.

That is pretty damn nice. I am going to look into that. Thanks for all of the help and replies.
 

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what kind of brass is it? i use the RCBS champher and deburring tool on my lake city crimped brass. 2 full rotations in the pocket and your good to go. it goes pretty quick too
 

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if you buy brand new lake city brass, it's pretty cheap IMO. they come unprimed, uncrimped. i just dont trust range brass, esp with things that go "boom" near my face.
 

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im not quite sure why everyone is afraid of range brass. to my knowledge i havnt heard of a rilfe blowing up because of brass. as far as i know worse case is that you get brass thats been used over and over and they crack somewhere in the case prep phase or when you fire then causeing your rifle to jam. or getting stuck in your chamber. but most reloaders that i know of keep it and take it to the metal place for money later.
 

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The lake city/DOD ammo is all reloads just about it
 

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If you get brass failure in the chamber it can do some damage to the rifle. Unless I know the origin of the brass (i.e. once fired mil-surp LC) I don't pick up from the range unless it is mine. It all may be just fine but why invite that variable into your life if you don't have to?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I use Lake city once fired from M855 rounds. I get them from our Base range. The AF has been using some frangible rounds lately and the brass head stamp is FC and has a crimped and red or blue sealant on the primer. I tied some out but didn't like it, the neck would crack during resizing on the first or second reload. I pretty much stick with lake city now. I bought a L E Wilson champher and deburring tool and with works great for primer crimp removal, it is razor sharp and only takes about one twist to completely remove it. One of these days I would like to get a dillon swager but that is about number 30 on my list of crap to buy.
 
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