Finally getting a press
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I have an "OLD" 500. They is nothing automatic about it, but it was good at what it did. Not sure about the 550, but take you time when you 1st start. Once you get use to it, it will start to flow on it's own.
Have fun with it, reloading can be very rewarding
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Dillon is good gear, I'm sure it'll work great for you. I'm looking at picking a 550 myself so I don't have to fart around with changing over the 1050 when I want to load something else, it's mucho easier on the 550's (and cheaper).
Just like cjt said, go slow at first, make sure all of your settings are where you want them (I make a small witness mark on anything adjustable so I can tell quickly at a glance if something has moved) because once you get cranking out rounds you don't want to have that moment of, "Did I change the powder measure from when I did those handful of rounds?" after you've already loaded a few hundred.
Just like cjt said, go slow at first, make sure all of your settings are where you want them (I make a small witness mark on anything adjustable so I can tell quickly at a glance if something has moved) because once you get cranking out rounds you don't want to have that moment of, "Did I change the powder measure from when I did those handful of rounds?" after you've already loaded a few hundred.
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1,906 Posts
The dillon 550b is here. Ill mount it tomorrow and set it up later in the week. Still need dies and a shell holder. I've heard dillon has great technical support. My only reloading experience is with a single stage press. And individually priming and charging each shell one at a time. This one has the automatic priming and powder measure on it. Its such a well engineered press. The warranty is great as we'll. I hope to get some accuracy loads rolled by the time my acr comes back from recall. Hope anyone who has experience with progressive pressive presses will chime in.
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2,791 Posts
Its been alot of years since I have reloaded;
(generic stuff) Setup is everything, go slow, measure often, and make sure your setup doesn't change while going thru the loading process. When in doubt, assume the worst and remove the suspects for investigation later. (you can always pull the bullets and reuse components)
Most of all have fun!!
(generic stuff) Setup is everything, go slow, measure often, and make sure your setup doesn't change while going thru the loading process. When in doubt, assume the worst and remove the suspects for investigation later. (you can always pull the bullets and reuse components)
Most of all have fun!!
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1,906 Posts
Lots and lots of rounds. I don't really like shooting unless I can't hit exactly what im aiming at. Even if its an inch or two off. Ammo cost adds up. If you reuse brass you'll save money. A pound of powder gets you roughly 400 .223 charges. Bullets are about 25 dollars for one hundred. Primers are cheap. The cost is in the press. If you already have one or get an inexpensive one and shoot alot. It can pay for itself quickly. Especially since you can tailor the recipe to your rifle. It can be pretty inexpensive to get started. For as little as $250 id say for the basics of everything. Which is what alot of people have spent on ammo already.
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I don't have much experience with it yet but I start with a "recipe" from my reloading book which for an accuracy load for my bullet chosen it calls for a specific amount of a specific powder. When I test it ill see if I need to take away or add to the charge without adding too much of course. Different things like bullet seating depth effect accuracy as well. My 69grain sierra matchking accuracy load calls for varget. Powder at a charge of I think 23.5 grains. Hunting loads are different due to different bullet weights and or powder varieties. Rcbs makes a good starter kit. Has most what you need for geting started. Case prep and all. Save your. 223 brass and sort them by brand. Certain brands are a little better. Federal is pretty high end but alot more expensive.
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Not sure actually. I think they're developed for the specific bullet. Its not always about the velocity as it is about how the bullet will get delivered to its target. Too much velocity isn't a good thing. One powder may have a higher velocity than another calling for a different charge. It is about seeing what the rifle likes so tospeak. I can look at my charts later and give you some examples but I know my game king sierras were lighter than the matchking. This will effect the load required. Lots of taking notes trial and using a cronograph will set you up for tailoring to your rifles needs.
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Awesome news! But, on the other hand, now there's one more person I have to fight with to get components!
Reloading can be a fun past time and I see it as just another step in mastering your rifle/pistol in that now you're getting into feeding the critter and controlling what goes into it. As for money saving, well that can be subjective. You end up spending about the same on powder, primers, etc as you would on loaded ammo but in the end you get to shoot more. It's a trade off I suppose. I load bulk, plinking FMJ's progressively on a Dillon and those are my classic "minute of tin can" accurate loads that are cheap and good enough for what I need them to do.
oif, I'd recommend 24gr of H335 with a 68/69gr pill. That's my old HP match load and it'll clean an X ring at 300yds as long as you've done your voodoo correctly. The 335 powder is also comparable to WC844 from the .mil so you can mimic a 193 or 855 load with it if you end up doing some FMJ ammo. For 69gr and under, that's the only powder I use for 223 ammo. *Of course, be safe and work up your load for your rifle!
Reloading can be a fun past time and I see it as just another step in mastering your rifle/pistol in that now you're getting into feeding the critter and controlling what goes into it. As for money saving, well that can be subjective. You end up spending about the same on powder, primers, etc as you would on loaded ammo but in the end you get to shoot more. It's a trade off I suppose. I load bulk, plinking FMJ's progressively on a Dillon and those are my classic "minute of tin can" accurate loads that are cheap and good enough for what I need them to do.
oif, I'd recommend 24gr of H335 with a 68/69gr pill. That's my old HP match load and it'll clean an X ring at 300yds as long as you've done your voodoo correctly. The 335 powder is also comparable to WC844 from the .mil so you can mimic a 193 or 855 load with it if you end up doing some FMJ ammo. For 69gr and under, that's the only powder I use for 223 ammo. *Of course, be safe and work up your load for your rifle!
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1,906 Posts
Thanks Dsm. I have varget now because that's what my 69 grain sierra matchking table called for. Ill get the powder you recommended and compare them. The varget called for 24.2 grains I think. Its a dillon 550b. Have you had trouble getting components for your dillon? Do you use dillons powder drop or one of the other brands. I noticed rcbs or reading and hornady make a benchrest one which I think has a micrometer type meter. I mounted it yesterday but am thinking about getting the strong mount. It sits way too low. What do you use for dies?
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1,586 Posts
I have a Dillon 1050 and use a mixture of dies really. When I'm processing brass I size with a Dillon carbide sizer, swage (it's on the press), trim with their 1200B trimmer and then finish up with an RCBS case mate. When loading, my first station has a Hornady neck sizer, then around through priming and then powder with the Dillon powder measure, next is a Hornady powder cop die (I broke my Dillon powder check die--don't ask) then a generic Redding 223 seating die dialed in to seat and crimp.
The Dillon powder drop is plenty accurate enough for what you'll be using it for. mine has been +/- .1gr according to my scale. If you were loading serious, benchrest rounds you'd be hand weighting each one probably any how. Make sure you keep your handle throws consistent and the powder drop will be consistent as well.
I would run with the basic set up for a little while before you go changing stuff out (read: spend money) on other things or upgrades. Break it in a little and see how well it does for you. See what you like or don't like and that will help guide you to the gear that's right for you. The most accurate load I ever made was some 308 loaded with cheap Lee dies that resulted in a cloverleaf at 300yds. There are a lot of little gizmos and gadgets that will make a "match" round but for the most part they aren't really needed unless you're really looking into serious competition where thousandths of an inch separate 1st from 10th place. If that's the case, just sign over your paychecks to Sinclair International! lol!
There's a bunch of reloaders on here so if you got any questions don't hesitate to ask!
The Dillon powder drop is plenty accurate enough for what you'll be using it for. mine has been +/- .1gr according to my scale. If you were loading serious, benchrest rounds you'd be hand weighting each one probably any how. Make sure you keep your handle throws consistent and the powder drop will be consistent as well.
I would run with the basic set up for a little while before you go changing stuff out (read: spend money) on other things or upgrades. Break it in a little and see how well it does for you. See what you like or don't like and that will help guide you to the gear that's right for you. The most accurate load I ever made was some 308 loaded with cheap Lee dies that resulted in a cloverleaf at 300yds. There are a lot of little gizmos and gadgets that will make a "match" round but for the most part they aren't really needed unless you're really looking into serious competition where thousandths of an inch separate 1st from 10th place. If that's the case, just sign over your paychecks to Sinclair International! lol!
There's a bunch of reloaders on here so if you got any questions don't hesitate to ask!
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