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Discussion Starter #1
I have been eyeing the rcbs AR dies and it seems beneficial. I think they may taper crimp the case. And also partially resize the case rather than fully resize or neck size allowing the round to cycle properly from differences in case length where performing in a semi auto wouldn't work as fluidly. I havnt done a whole lot of reloading but I think the decapping resizing die is one die and bullet seating is another. These AR dies are a two die set. Im trying to maintain consistancy in my reloading and was leaning toward a micrometer type bullet seating die also by rcbs. Just trying to be as accurate as possible thoug I understand there's alot more factors to consider. This is for. 223 caliber in a dpms bull twenty. Not necessarily for running in the acr.
 

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I use the lee carbide die set and like them alot. They are about half the price and have a roll crimp in the seating die and also comes with a separate die to add a factory crimp. The de-capping die is also a full length sizing die. I like the full length sizing die, but I also trim my brass every time. You should check them out on Midway USA so you can read the reviews as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Do I have this right? Full length resize is better for magezine fed semi auto rifles to ensure proper cycling. Neck size for single shot bolt rifles. The rcbs AR dies I think are kind of in between but I do not remember. But ill check those lee dies out. Thanks.
 

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I am by no means a subject matter expert on reloading but I have found there are three things that are crucial to proper cycling: 1) Proper resizing of the case to factory specs (because it will expand in the chamber after firing). 2) Trimming your bass to Factory specs because every time you fire it, it will stretch it (This was the biggest issue for me at first due to not having a trimmer and the round would get stuck in the chamber and I would have to kick the charging handle to dislodge it). 3) A solid crimp because there is a bit of jarring inside the magazine during firing and it can unset the bullet either way in the casing. (there ae plenty of people who will swear by a simple roll crimp and plenty of other people who insist on the factory crimp I am with the the latter, because I always feel that it is better to be safe than sorry when it comes to reloading. I reload several calibers and have helped buddies with a lot of others and one thing that I have observed is that the .223 Rem is the most tricky and finicky. A lot of people talk smack on lee products in general but when it comes to their dies they are really top notch, not to mention very reasonable in price.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe he was decapping crimped primer pocket brass? I know im putting a sinclair order together. I was leaning towards match grade dies with the micrometer bullet seating die. This is because my acr will have some reloads run through it but my match ar will run the lot of it. Kind of want to get one set of dies to keep for as long as I reload. Tough this set is $175-$200 I think.
 

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Maybe he was decapping crimped primer pocket brass? I know im putting a sinclair order together. I was leaning towards match grade dies with the micrometer bullet seating die. This is because my acr will have some reloads run through it but my match ar will run the lot of it. Kind of want to get one set of dies to keep for as long as I reload. Tough this set is $175-$200 I think.
If you are going to reload match that would probably be the best option. keep me posted on the loads
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will do. I've got most everything except dies and case prep equipment. 69gr sierra matchking which calls for varget powder on sierras accuracy load.
 

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With the minimal recoil of the acr you might be able to get away with a no crimp...I started out reloading for my bolt action 223 so im not a big fan of not crimping when i dont have to.
 

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I have only reloaded for my bolt action rifle, and I don't resize my brass after it has been fired in my chamber because it is then form fitted to my chamber. I just check to make sure its not split or oversized with a go/no go gauge.
I don't know how necessary it is with a semi auto...
 

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In my single stage I use a Redding FL die with a carbide sizing button. The carbide button makes lubing the case mouth not a big issue and makes sizing smoother. For seating I use a Forster with the micrometer stem. They have nice seaters with minimal runout from my experience.

Full length sizing is needed on autoloaders of course but you can use a case gauge to size the minimum amount so as to not overwork the case. Hornady also makes a gage to go on a pair of micrometers to measure headspace but I think the go/no-go gages are easier to work with.

On the progressive I use a Dillon FL sizer and a basic Redding seater. Both set ups load ammo as accurate as I need it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I can't wait. One more week of training then ill put an order in. I may splurg on the micrometer seating die and a nice accurate case trimmer. My dillon had a powder drop. There's more accurate ones out there I've seen.
 

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Oif, buy me a ta31rcom4 marine spec :) ill love you forever
 

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You can buy it and earn my love too
 
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